I THINK THEREFORE I AMSTERDAM

You can't be in Amsterdam for long without pondering the question: why can't other cities get it right like this? Okay, it's extremely beautiful before you've even done anything, wonderful tall slightly slanting historic houses lining canals, everywhere you turn. Not a bad start. But it's so QUIET. The ding of a bicycle bell from one of the 500,000 in the city as it trundles by; louder dings from the smooth and regular trams. But that's basically IT. In the centre of one of the world's great cities. I know, I know - but they had trams in LA too, you know, before an automotive cabal bought them up and closed them down. Big improvement. And the too-easily accepted, apparently inescapable car noise you get in London, or Bristol just - isn't there. Yes, there are busier parts, but they're busy the way a suburban high street can be. And those are only a few areas, and only some of the time.

To this already wondrous backdrop, add Mystery; this is after all the city where Tricky Theatre, a zany magic-restaurant-boat, is already visible as you step from Centraal Station. Rather though, add 'Myster', the gathering place of the modern Mages. It couldn't be more classic. It's right beside a large indoor shopping mall, though you'd never know it was there. It's fronted by a nondescript door and an almost invisible sign. Inside, there's nothing special about the cluttered entrance way. Go upstairs, though, and you enter an en-trance way. Big space, soft light, welcoming sofas, stage-style curtains, exotic decor, and more than anything else - an ineffable, tangible atmosphere. When the Magic Masterclass isn't visiting, Myster offers itself as a venue to other groups, and as an outlet for esoteric mind machines, pendulums and literature. If there's real magic, it's to be found there, in the very air. So where else would you expect to find Real Magicians?

England has Hogwarts, Germany Durmstrang, and Holland has... Myster. Netherlanders Stefanie (surely a Sprite?) and alchemist George are there in smiling attendance on - Chicago's Dumbledore, 'The Master' (but you can call him Eugene), possessor of the world's only authentic Magic Beard. Beside him, and deferring to him, always, is surely James Potter; very much alive and disguised as Jeff McBride. Who headlined in Las Vegas when in his twenties, and two decades later still remains, but now more for the magic of the surrounding desert, for the deep night and the firedances which flourish there. A wizard/sage and a sorcerer/shaman: the Faculty. Toto, I don't think we're in Card Trick land any more.

Only, even more bizarrely, we also ARE. Jeff shared late one night that "people come here to get their magic healed". Literally, of course: to learn better 'moves', improve their script, develop a character - and just to learn cool tricks. But also - though the Faculty never spell this out - metaphorically. Because some form of 'Magic' is what we all desire, and there's nary a one of us who escapes the need for Healing, before that encounter can take place. So students take away whatever they want; in every case, that includes a deeper respect and regard for their art, as well as a notebook's worth of invaluable practical advice. For those who look a bit deeper, there is unmistakably more. Maybe this is not something you can pin down, analyse or even name - but it is something which endures beyond all the act-polishing and note- taking. Something that you might want to call, well - Magic...